Last year when I first visited Jennycliff, I’d been disappointed to find that the path to the beach had been closed off because of cliff subsidence. Not only was there a big notice, but an even bigger and forbidding fence, complete with sharp bits, had been placed across the path that made sure you kept out. The views from the cliff and the café itself were still good, good enough reason to visit the spot, but there was always that feeling you were missing out on something.
This year I find the big notice and the even bigger forbidding fence are both still there, but in the intervening 12 months enough people had been irritated by this denial of access, and the fact that the cliffs still hadn’t been shored up, that now there was something of a path hacked through the gorse and clay just left of the fence, and just wide enough to allow circumnavigation. Paths like this tell you a lot about what to expect. On the one hand it wasn’t exactly official (if that had been the case the fence would have been taken away) but on the other hand it had seen enough traffic to indicate that more than one intrepid explorer had passed this way, on more than one occasion, had found the scrabbling worthwhile, and had lived to tell the tale. In short, you could get down to the beach, just don’t go crying to mummy if you fall over.
So L and I set off. It wasn’t far before you could see why the fence had been put up. A lot of the cliff had fallen away taking most of the path with it, so there was only a foot wide ledge in places to tread on, most of it mud made even more slippery by the recent rains. However, where it was at its narrowest some public spirited adventurer had tied a rope between the trunks of several shrubs so you had something to hold on to, and it didn’t take us long to get to the bottom.
Fences are strange things. Clearly they are designed to keep you out (or sometimes in) whether it’s ‘for your own good’, or just to keep you off someone else’s property, or make sure you’re where you’re supposed to be. But while their function is to prevent, they also act as a clear advert that here is something someone wants you kept away from, ergo, what’s beyond has to be interesting.
And fences do another thing: they delineate the borders of zones beyond the world of the ordinary, so that, once you’ve crossed this border, you are now in a special place where the usual rules no longer apply.
When we reached the beach there were a few teenagers there, some smoking, others clambering over rocks, throwing stones and rubbish from the shoreline, being generally loud, and one or two wandering on their own as far as the sea would let them. If I’d approached any of them with my ideas on life beyond the borders they would have just laughed or looked at me like I was mad. After all, there are other, more impenetrable boundaries that you only get to cross once.