The history of the Cornish Pasty is intimately linked to tin mining in Cornwall and Devon, one of the oldest industries of our shores, dating back beyond 2500 BC. The pasty itself evolved as a packed lunch for the miners; a nourishing and hearty meal of beef and root vegetables wrapped up in a pastry case to make them easier to carry down the pit. Also, given that the miners would have had to eat their food in dusty confined spaces and in complete darkness, having your dinner encased in an edible wrapping would have been vital. To get an idea of the importance of this for yourself, try eating your dinner blindfold while hunched up in a cupboard under the stairs (no tables or forks allowed either). For full effect, empty the contents of your vacuum cleaner bag into the space just before starting to eat. Dishes like Salade niçoise or Tagliatelle carbonara aren’t practical in these conditions.

Plymouth’s origins too are closely tied up with the tin mining industry. Plympton, now a district within the city, was one of the key ports for exporting the metal until the river Plym became so silted up with mining debris that it was no longer navigable and boats had to moor south of this original destination. This ecological disaster probably contributed to the development of Plymouth as a major port.

At the time of Christ, the tin mining industry was already venerable and there was significant trade between the south west of England and the Mediterranean countries as far as the Middle East. Indeed legend has it that Joseph of Arimathea, Jesus’ uncle, regularly visited these parts on business as a tin trader and that Jesus, while a boy, once accompanied him. William Blake’s poem (later the anthem): ‘Jerusalem’ celebrates this expedition and I like to think that, while not mentioned in any of the lines, our saviour and his uncle would have stopped off in Plympton for a pasty or two during their time here.

While the tin mining industry in the West Country has now collapsed, the pasty continues as a filling tribute to one of the earliest of British industries. Cornish Pasties are one of a select list of foods produced in the British Isles that have been awarded the status of protected designation of origin (like champagne but so much more satisfying) and justifiably so, you just can’t get a good one outside the region. Locally there are heated debates as to who makes the best ones and the competition between bakers is so fierce (there are even annual championships) that this ensures high standards. However, I was surprised to find that even the packaged ones are good. On a tipoff from the woman in the corner shop (who’d just sold out of hot ones) I tried out one from her fridge and indeed it turned out to be just as good as the freshly cooked versions. It therefore seems appropriate that I should begin my three-part journey through Plymouth with the label from this product.